Buenos Aires stole my heart. It is such a beautiful city. As days had moved closer to us arriving, I will admit I was getting nervous. Many travelers we met, MANY, had unfortunate incidents of being robbed. We kept our wits about it and were able to enjoy every moment. (Exception: postal service. Dani to provide comment)
Since we were there for two weeks we rented an apartment which was lovely. Our host was the most pleasant man you would ever meet. Having an apartment also adds an element of routine that Dani especially loves. She was able to go to the same fruiteria each day and be greeted with a kiss on the cheek by the owner. We had our regular coffee place, Cafe Tolva, where we would have our regular order cortado and three medialunas (small croissants). We had a regular ice cream place, Fratello. We were able to navigate the bus system with ease. It was lovely and a welcome break from travel.
Also, as an added bonus it was hot! Patagonia had left us craving warmer weather. In fact, Buenos Aires got too hot. By the end of our stay the temperature with humidity was around 37.
We did a fun walking tour of the posh area of BsAs. Wandered through San Telmo street market. Visited the Recoleta cemetery… Twice…it is that beautiful. Went to some art museums (MALBA, MACBA, MAMBA,Proa). Ate delicious steak. Indulged in ice cream. Wandered the caminito in Boca and watched a touristy tango show. Learned more about Eva Péron. Watched families set off fire crackers in all the parks on Christmas Eve. Indulged in dulce de leche in both liquor and spreadable form. Drank delicious wine. All this and more and I feel like we only scratched the surface of this amazing city. A city that eats dinner and eleven in the evening before going for drinks at 1am. A city where they deliver ice cream to your door via bicycle at 4am. A city that streets are filled with people walking at all hours. A place where the most beautiful bookstore I have ever encountered is open 24 hours. A city filled with architecture of Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Neo-Renaissance, Modern and Post Modern all on the same street.
Buenos Aires you have my heart. I will be back.